A Guide To Stump Grinding

30 Aug 2017 09:47
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As an itinerant stump grinder for these past dozen years, I have experienced a variety of stump removal scenarios. I haven't written this with the intention to impress, nor has it been written as the "be all to end all stump grinding method". I felt there to be a need for a written description of what I do, amongst the plethora of visual and pictorial information out there. Perhaps this humble piece will inspire other stump grinders to make an effort with their written descriptions of how they grind away stumps with their machinery. If this collective information, was compiled and indexed, it may prove to be a valued written source of reference for all future stump grinders. I am fortunate to be able to draw upon my own unique mix of experiences (not necessarily connected with this subject), complemented with an ability to put this into writing —- although how it is interpreted and remains to be seen. This is a detailed description of how I remove a tree stump with a professional stump grinding machine.

There will be deviations from this main topic, also describing my reasons, methodology, and events which led to the present action taken. It is understood there are many other views with many other variations in procedure, reflected by variations of equipment types. My intention of basing my procedural description with a modified Carlton 2300 stump grinder, is to keep it simple, without all the "bells and whistles" of modern stump grinding machines. However, this old (1997) model has been updated with a Lombardi diesel engine to give it performance approaching modern machines. If you want to know more about angle grinder then you go lawncarepal.com

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I have added a number of my own "bells and whistles" in the form of various gauges which I feel are important to gain a general understanding of machine performance. Further, old fashioned finger type cutter teeth are used. This is a personal preference based on cost alone. I also recognize the OEM improvements made to modern stump grinders and do not intend for these writings to diminish those improvements in any conceivable way. Again I re-emphasize the use of an old model Carlton 2300 is to keep it simple in spite of the below-listed changes to the machine.

My wish and hope are that some of this will spark additional thoughts and improvements to increased safety and productivity in a potentially hazardous operation. Stump grinding is inherently a hazardous operation to people, pets, and property. The scope of this procedural description assumes a familiarity with all necessary safety equipment, and will only make occasional reference to such equipment within the context of my operational method and procedure. I will begin with a list of modifications made to this old Carlton 2300 including reasons:

This was a frequent and essential task to prevent "hot spots" and to maintain efficient engine cooling for such a hot running air cooled engine. A water cooled engine has distinct advantages for operating in such a dirty environment. A thick neoprene gasket placed beneath the chain drive cover. This gasket is a great improvement with keeping out contamination and extending chain life. (Modern stump grinders have hydraulic motor hub drives for each wheel. Chain breakage was always a risk, with the possibility of a runaway machine. That can't happen with hydraulic motors at the drive wheels.) Complete sheet metal encasement of 'V' belt drive. Required for CE compliance.

Improved fixing/support bracket for shallow screen located directly behind cutter wheel. This bracket was made in one piece of steel stretching the length of the rubber screen. It provides additional screen support and is quicker /easier to remove for screen replacement due to wear.
Heavy duty spiral binding was wrapped around all exposed hydraulic hoses. A CE requirement to protect the operator from a hydraulic hose burst. Installation of thermocouples to the bearings for determining their average normal running temperature and to indicate excessive bearing play yet to be installed.

There are two ways of getting your stump grinder down the road to a site; either by loading it onto a trailer, onto a truck or into a van. I chose a VW medium wheel base, high top, turbo-diesel, panel van for the following reasons, and a description of how the stump grinder is stowed VW vans represent dependability for me. I'm onto my third change of van (all purchased second hand) and have never had a breakdown that wasn't my fault. The trailer option seemed to be hassle, with access down narrow driveways, turning radii too narrow, and a great deal of unnecessary maneuvering

I don’t have a large enough lock up garage, which would require outside storage for the stump grinder and trailer making it subject to theft. My van is dedicated to storing the stump grinder where It stays onboard. I do all of my servicing and repairs with the stump grinder onboard. I carry all necessary tooling to perform minor field repairs e.g. changing a drive chain to the drive axle or wedge belts for the cutter drive. The stump grinder and tools are secure in the van with the vans additional security, egg. Immobilizer, alarm, wheel clamp, and additional door and frame strengthening which has already prevented someone trying to lever the base of the rear doors upwards in an attempt to gain access.

I keep a set of steel ramps stowed onboard. These are also useful for gaining access to gardens with steps, or at a higher level. A steel wire cable is installed between opposite anchor points next to the steel bulkhead separating the driver from load bay. At the cable's center is fixed a steel ring, through which the stump grinder's stake enters when the machine is stored. This cable has two purposes. The first use is when uploading the grinder. By extending its tongue to reach the steel ring fixed at the center of the wire cable, then passing the machine's stake through the steel ring, allows the machine to pull itself into position when retracting the tongue.

This entry method is preferred over reliance on the grinders wheel traction which is minimized on wet days, and also because its wheels must climb over, and on top of screening stored on the floor of the van. The second use is as a secure fixing point while the van is in transit. Within the rear of the load bay, is a steel saddle fixed to the floor. It is bolted to the van's floor, and through square plates pulling against the chassis underside. The machine's cutter wheel nestles between two vertical plates. A pin passes through both vertical plates and a cutter wheel bolt hole, where the tertiary pockets use to be fixed. The machine is firmly stored using this method. Indeed, it stayed in place, with my van on its side in a drainage ditch!

Information by: familyhandyman.com

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